It’s time to explore Hobart, so put on your adventure hat. While some of the best activities are right on the central waterfront, others lead straight into the alluring and ever-present surrounding nature.
I really enjoyed how easy it is to move between the city and the wilderness — I found myself going from Hobart’s CBD to serene bush and coastal settings in under an hour. Everything feels close and accessible, which makes the mix of things you can do on a single day remarkable.
Here are the best ways to experience Hobart, pleasing both the city slicker and the outdoor lover within you.
1. Expect the unexpected at Mona’s adult playground
Hidden in the sandstone on a peninsula surrounded by the River Derwent are the three provoking storeys of the Museum of New and Old Art, also known as MONA. Although the central concepts are sex and death, you should be prepared for just about anything as you uncover the illuminated objects in its dark labyrinthine chambers. Everything you encounter is part of David Walsh’s private collection slash adult playground, full of things you either love or hate. How about the 46-metre, 1,620-image Snake by Sidney Nolan; Julius Popp’s bit.fall, with droplets of water forming words; and Cloaca Professional by Wim Delvoye, basically a (bad-smelling) poo machine replicating the human digestive system?
I was amazed by how long it takes to properly go through the museum, so set aside a full day to avoid rushing.
2. Celebrate with seafood at Constitution & Victoria docks
Fishing boats arrive with their latest catch while seagulls soar overhead at Constitution Dock and Victoria Dock in the heart of Hobart’s historic waterfront. Within steps of the water, and even bobbing on the surface, beckons an array of seafood eateries. Try Mures Lower Deck, elegantly sitting between the docks, for fresh delicacies from the sea followed by ice cream to die for. The atmosphere peaks at the end of December when Constitution Dock hosts a village celebrating the finish of the yearly Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race and New Year’s Eve fireworks light up the sky.
3. Get educated at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery
Masterfully blending history with art, the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery is the place to gain insights into the essence of Tasmania. Attention-grabbers include the tear-evoking display about the thylacine, the extinct Tasmanian tiger, and intriguing exhibit presenting the connection with Antarctica. These grounds are, in fact, a historical treasure in their own right: The 1810 Commissariat Store, prior-to-1815 Private Secretary’s Cottage and 1826 Bond Store are some of the island’s oldest buildings.
4. Wet your throat at Lark Cellar Door
The Lark Distillery, named after founder Bill Lark, bottles acclaimed spirits made in and of Tasmania. Whisky lovers gravitate towards the casual Lark Cellar Door, the former distillery and bond store adjacent to Constitution Dock. Here, whisky tasting flights showcase flavours reflecting the island’s thriving landscape, with options ranging from classic casks to limited releases. Other Lark venues include nearby The Still, a bar with a wider range of beverages, and the countryside Pontville distillery, open for guided tours.
5. Saunter through the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens
As Australia’s premier cool-climate garden, 14-hectare Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens gives plenty of reasons to stop by. The Subantarctic Plant House features a rare collection of plants from high southern latitudes, particularly Macquarie Island, and offers a respite from the heat during hot summer days. From cherries to irises to maples, there’s always something to see in the Japanese Garden, complete with an eye-catching red bridge. Then, there are the conservatory, historic walls, lily pond and a whole bunch more, all waiting to be uncovered on a scenic stroll.
6. Gaze across Hobart from Mount Wellington
Adorned with dolerite columns resembling organ pipes, the 1,271-m Mount Wellington spectacularly shoots up over Hobart. Getting to the top involves a snaking 30-minute drive, often through thick mist. At the alpine summit, boardwalks, viewing platforms and an observation shelter (a lifesaver on the many chilly, windy days up here) command breathtaking views of Hobart and beyond. For more scenery, lace up your hiking shoes and explore the slopes: The Zig Zag Trail leads down the mountain and connects with the Organ Pipes Walk, which provides imposing close-ups of the astounding 100-m-tall rock formations that give it its name.
Even though I visited in the heart of summer, it was chilly and very windy at the summit. Bring an extra layer for full enjoyment.
7. Drool over locally made treasures at Salamanca Market
Reserve your Saturday morning for the storied Salamanca Market, set beneath Salamanca Place’s 1830s sandstone structures, built as warehouses but transformed into trendy restaurants, bars, shops and the Salamanca Arts Centre. Hundreds of stalls eagerly line up, selling everything from Tasmanian artworks and crafts to fresh oysters and crowd-pleasing scallop pies and skewers. It’s a bustling event with street buskers adding to the ambience. Our tip: Bring your meal to nearby St. David’s Park for a relaxed picnic lunch.
8. Ascend the steps to sheltered Battery Point
Climb Kelly’s Step from Salamanca Place to find the adorable Battery Point suburb. Although the 1818 defense station from which its name originates is long gone (it occupied what today is Princes Park), the tucked-away location still provides shelter — but these days from tourist swarms. Relish the calm vibe as you appreciate historic architecture: The stately Narryna mansion, built in the late 1830s by Captain Andrew Haig, is a folk museum full of artefacts. At Arthur Circus, private but no less picturesque workers’ cottages wrap around a small park. If you need to power up, visit the red-brick Jackman & McRoss Bakery, with delicious pies. For an apt cold one, step into the white-and-blue Shipwright Arms Hotel, aka “Shippies”.
I came by on a sunny weekend, but the bustle of Salamanca Place was quickly replaced by quiet residential streets and gardens, inviting you to linger outside the historic cottages.
9. Hear stories less told at the Cascades Female Factory
If you thought all convicts during the colonial era were men, think again. Tasmania received some 12,500 convict women and girls; South Hobart’s purpose-built 1828 Cascades Female Factory (on the World Heritage list alongside the more famous Porth Arthur) totalled 1,200 during its most overcrowded state. Get an audio guide or, even better, follow a knowledgeable human around to learn about the grim lives inside walls erected both to punish and reform. It’s a sobering experience, especially considering the sad faith of the babies born on site.
10. Have a beer or three at the Cascades Brewery
You can tackle the Cascades Brewery, Australia’s oldest operating beer factory, in myriad ways: Start from the 1824 foundations on the Historic Tour (all ages); see the production facilities on the Brewery Tour (18+), with tastings included; or cut straight to the good stuff at the Cascade Brewery Bar, providing meals and, of course, beer to be enjoyed inside or in the spacious garden. Cheers!
11. Cruise the untamed River Derwent
A testament to that the wilderness always is near in Tasmania, the River Derwent travels from pristine Lake St Clair high up in the Central Highlands and majestically cuts through Hobart before flowing into Storm Bay. Several tour companies gladly take visitors out on the water for a short cruise or full-day excursion. To feed two birds with one scone, book the ferry from the CBD to Mona, a beautiful 30-minute ride going under the landmark Tasman Bridge.
I took the ferry from the CBD to MONA, and the shifting views along the Derwent River made the journey feel like part of the experience rather than just transport.
12. Induce a cheese and chocolate coma at Coal River Farm
Artisan cheese and chocolate lure visitors to Coal River Farm, idyllically set in the namesake valley (a 20-minute drive from Hobart CBD). Work up an appetite by watching goodies being made through large glass windows, or head straight for the restaurant, where the High Cheese is the big thing: It brings you a mouth-watering sample of handcrafted cheeses and chocolates. In particular on a cold day, the signature hot chocolate is an excellent choice of drink. Browse the products in the shop on your way out.
13. Voyage to bucolic Bruny Island
The line of cars can be long, especially in summer and on weekends. But as soon as the 20-minute ferry to Bruny Island departs, all your worries appear to dissolve. In front of you is an island that looks like two: North Bruny and South Bruny, only connected by eye-poppingly narrow The Neck (climb the stairs for photos). Beyond that much-visited isthmus, bucolic landscapes of livestock-dotted fields, thick eucalyptus forests and empty beaches promise seclusion and endless recreation opportunities. When you need to refuel, try island institutions like Get Shucked to savour oysters or Bruny Island Cheese Company for artisan-made cheese, beer and ridiculously tasty sourdough bread.
I had almost no wait for the ferry, but it can get busy — especially on summer weekends — so plan a bit of extra time for the crossing.
14. Connect with the stirring Tasman Peninsula
An hour east of Hobart, the Tasman Peninsula is home to one of the finest convict settlements from the colonial period, the World Heritage-listed Port Arthur. Tour over 30 buildings and ruins, including the 136-cell Penitentiary, scattered across a sprawling 40-hectare complex dating back to 1830. Expect bone-chilling stories about poor souls, like those in the dreaded isolation cells, colliding with the uplifting Government Gardens and picturesque waterfront setting. The rest of the peninsula is, believe it or not, as gripping: Road-side overlooks and short paved paths make it effortless to appreciate otherworldly rock formations, such as the Tessellated Pavement, Blow Hole and Tasmans Arch, while Cape Raoul, Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy are bucket-list bushwalks demanding more time and sweat.
I allocated multiple days to the Tasman Peninsula, and I recommend doing the same — especially if you’re into hiking. But you can still tick off many of the highlights even if you only have a day.
In case you wonder…
Many of our favourite things to do are, in fact, free. You can explore Constitution & Victoria docks, the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, Mount Wellington, Salamanca Market and Battery Point without paying a cent.
With plenty of hands-on activities, the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery is a great place to take the kids. After learning a thing or two together, enjoy fish-and-chips and ice cream at Constitution Dock, just across the street.
Indoor attractions — like Mona, the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery and Lark Cellar Door — are extra appreciated on a chilly winter day. Need a warm beverage? Try the superb hot chocolate at Coal River Farm.
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